Skincare Ingredient

Ascorbyl Glucoside

It is a derivative of Vitamin C, ,a stable and easy-to-formulate form of skincare ingredient. In-vitro studies show that it shows all three anti-aging benefits (antioxidant protection, collagen boosting, + fading hyperpigmentation).

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

EAC is much more stable compared to traditional vitamin C (ascorbic acid). This means it can withstand exposure to air, light, and temperature changes without breaking down as quickly. EAC is soluble in both water and oil. This makes it versatile and easier for the body to absorb and use effectively.

Acetyl Glucosamine

Acetyl glucosamine is a natural substance that our bodies produce. One of its key roles is to help maintain healthy skin by promoting the production of two important types of skin cells: keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Keratinocytes form the outer layer of our skin, providing protection, while fibroblasts produce collagen and other proteins that support skin structure and elasticity.

By stimulating the production of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, acetyl glucosamine supports overall skin health and function. This is why it’s commonly used in skincare products to promote skin renewal, maintain skin structure, and improve skin appearance.

Additionally, acetyl glucosamine plays a role in creating substances called glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) in our body. These GAGs are important components that contribute to skin hydration and firmness. One of the glycosaminoglycans produced with the help of acetyl glucosamine is hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is known for its ability to retain moisture and keep the skin hydrated, smooth, and supple.

Therefore, when acetyl glucosamine is present, it supports the production of glycosaminoglycans, including hyaluronic acid, which is beneficial for maintaining skin hydration and overall skin health

Centella asiatica

Gotu kola extract, also known as Centella asiatica or Indian pennywort, has a rich history of traditional use in skincare.

Skin Benefits: It helps treat skin redness and soothes itching associated with dermatological disorders like psoriasis and sunburns.
Anti-Inflammatory and Soothing: Gotu kola calms skin irritation and itching due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
Regulates Skin Cell Growth: By inhibiting the rapid growth of skin cells (keratinocytes), it can be beneficial for conditions like psoriasis.
Promotes Circulation: It may improve blood flow and is used in anti-cellulite treatments.
Healing Properties: Gotu kola is known for its healing effects and can aid in minor burn and sunburn recovery.

In summary, gotu kola extract is a versatile skincare ingredient with soothing, anti-inflammatory, and healing properties, making it effective for various skin concerns and conditions.

Vitamin tree extract

Seabuckthorn berry oil extract is a powerful ingredient for skincare. It shields your skin from harmful external factors that can cause damage or irritation. Packed with skin-loving nutrients like vitamin C, vitamin E, carotenoids, amino acids, and flavonols, this extract nourishes and protects your skin. Seabuckthorn is a natural shrub native to Europe and Asia, providing a source of skincare goodness straight from nature. Incorporating seabuckthorn berry oil into your skincare routine can help keep your skin healthy, radiant, and protected against environmental stressors.

Niacinemide

Niacinamide, also called vitamin B3, is a water-soluble ingredient that helps improve rough, dry, or flaky skin by making it smoother and more supple. It’s a type of vitamin B that works well in skincare products to stimulate and improve the appearance of dry or damaged skin, reducing flakiness and promoting healthier skin. Niacin, or vitamin B3, is related to niacinamide and supports its benefits for skin health and texture.

For example, applying a 5 percent niacinamide cream twice daily for 8 weeks significantly improved hyperpigmentation. Another study showed that niacinamide-containing formulations increased the size and maturity of skin cells (corneocytes), reduced inflammation, and prevented water loss through the skin.

Overall, niacinamide is valued for moisturizing, strengthening the skin barrier, UV protection, and reducing hyperpigmentation in skincare products. It’s a versatile ingredient for improving overall skin health and appearance.

Bees Wax

Usage and Function: Beeswax is a very old ingredient used in cosmetics. It’s commonly used to mix water and oil together in creams and similar products. It also helps control the thickness or consistency of these formulations.
Application: Beeswax is found in solid and paste products like creams, lipsticks, and pomades. When applied to the skin, it forms a network rather than a film like petroleum-based products do.
Benefits: Although there’s no scientific proof for all claims, beeswax is believed to have several beneficial properties. These include anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antioxidant, anti-bacterial, germicidal, skin-softening, and elasticity-enhancing properties.
Anti-oxidant Properties: Beeswax has some ability to scavenge free radicals, which are harmful to the skin.
Non-comedogenic: Depending on where it comes from, beeswax is considered a non-comedogenic ingredient, meaning it’s unlikely to clog pores.
Low Allergy Risk: Beeswax rarely causes skin sensitivity or allergic reactions in most people.

Panthenol

Effective Moisturizer: Panthenol deeply hydrates the skin by attracting and retaining moisture, promoting skin suppleness and smoothness.
Supports Skin Barrier: Research suggests that panthenol helps the skin produce essential lipids, strengthening the skin barrier for better protection and resilience.
Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Panthenol has anti-inflammatory effects, reducing irritation caused by harsh ingredients like fragrances or preservatives commonly found in skincare products.
Promotes Wound Healing: Studies indicate that panthenol supports wound healing by promoting the growth of skin-firming collagen-producing cells called fibroblasts.

Green Tea

From a skincare perspective, green tea is a powerful antioxidant because it contains catechins. These catechins also give green tea antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Studies suggest that green tea may help prevent diseases like cancer and heart disease by protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals.

Green tea is commonly used in anti-aging skincare products because of its antioxidant benefits. When applied to the skin, it can reduce swelling and is often added to sunscreens to boost their SPF protection.

Green tea can be obtained from the plant itself or from dried leaves and contains beneficial substances like caffeine and phenolic acids. The most important components of green tea are polyphenols, especially a catechin called EGCG (Epigallocatechin gallate).

Quality of green tea extracts can vary, with good extracts containing 50-90% catechins, which can change the color and smell of the product.

In summary, green tea is well-known for its antioxidant, UV-protective, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial properties. Because of these benefits, green tea is a great choice for anti-aging skincare and for managing skin conditions like rosacea, acne, and atopic dermatitis.

Uvinul A Plus

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate is a new type of sunscreen ingredient that’s not available in the US due to strict FDA regulations. It’s designed to provide strong protection against UVA rays from the sun and remains effective when exposed to sunlight for a long time. This ingredient shields your skin across the entire UVA spectrum (320-400 nm), offering peak protection at around 354nm. It can be used in sunscreen products outside of the US and Canada, but only up to 10% of the formula.

Uvinul T 150

Ethylhexyl Triazone represents an advanced chemical sunscreen, not accessible in the US due to stringent FDA regulations, that offers the most photostable UVB absorption among existing filters. It provides UVB protection within the range of 280-320nm, with peak effectiveness at 314nm. This oil-soluble, odorless, and colorless powder is ideal for fragrance-free formulations and can be used at concentrations up to 5% globally, excluding the US and Canada

Tinosorb S

The name “Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine” might sound complicated, but it’s actually one of the best sunscreen ingredients available today. It’s not approved by the FDA, so you won’t find it in sunscreens sold in the US. This isn’t because it’s not effective, but because the regulations in the US make it difficult for newer sunscreen ingredients to be approved. However, you can find this ingredient widely used in other parts of the world like Europe, Australia, and Asia.

This ingredient is a broad-spectrum sunscreen, meaning it protects against both UVB and UVA rays (covering the range of 280-400 nm). It provides the most protection at around 310 and 345 nm wavelengths. Unlike older sunscreen filters, it’s very stable when exposed to sunlight (photostable). It doesn’t break down easily under UV light and can even help stabilize other less stable sunscreen agents, like avobenzone, which is known for protecting against UVA rays

Trinosorb M

The extended name refers to a remarkable sunscreen agent that is quite unique: It’s classified as a “hybrid” sunscreen, blending characteristics of both physical (which partially reflect sunlight) and chemical agents (which absorb rays, like most sunscreens). This UV filter represents a new generation of sun protection and, similar to Trinosorb S, is unavailable in the US.

It offers excellent broad-spectrum coverage (280-400 nm, providing protection against UVB and UVA rays) with peak effectiveness at 305 nm and 360 nm, and it maintains high photostability. Additionally, it can assist in stabilizing less stable sunscreens, such as Octinoxate, and is generally compatible with other UV filters for enhanced performance.

Glycerine

Glycerin is a common ingredient in moisturizers that’s known for its ability to hold onto water and draw moisture from the air, keeping your skin hydrated. It’s been extensively studied for its moisturizing properties.

Although not glamorous, glycerin is a trusted ingredient with over 50 years of use in cosmetics. It occurs naturally in the outer layer of our skin, known as the stratum corneum (SC).

As a humectant-type moisturizer, glycerin helps the skin retain water. Research from 2005 shows that higher levels of glycerin in the skin are associated with improved hydration, making glycerin-containing products beneficial for maintaining well-hydrated skin.

Ceramide

Ceramides are natural lipids found in the skin’s outer layer. They form a protective barrier and help prevent water loss, keeping the skin hydrated and soft. Ceramides are great for various skin issues like dryness, sensitivity, and sun damage. They’re crucial for maintaining the skin’s structure and barrier function.

As we age, our skin produces fewer ceramides, leading to dry skin. Using skincare products with ceramides can help replenish them, improving the skin’s hydration and barrier function. Ceramides can also stimulate the skin to produce more of its own lipids.

Applying ceramides topically helps fill spaces between skin cells and encourages the skin to produce more of its own ceramides. This strengthens the skin’s barrier, reducing water loss and keeping it supple and hydrated. While ceramides can be made synthetically, they’re often derived from animals or plants, which can make them expensive.

Squalene

Squalene is a saturated hydrocarbon, meaning it contains only carbon and hydrogen atoms without any double bonds, which makes it a stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It occurs naturally in certain fish oils (like shark liver oil) and plant oils (such as olive oil), as well as in the sebum produced by human skin.

When extracted from sources like shark liver oil, squalene needs to undergo a process called hydrogenation to convert it into squalane. Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene and is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products due to its excellent emollient properties.

Squalane is known for its ability to provide emolliency, surface occlusion (forming a protective barrier on the skin), and prevention of trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), all while maintaining a light and elegant feel on the skin. Essentially, it acts as a superb moisturizer that leaves the skin feeling smooth and hydrated without feeling heavy or greasy.

Sodium Hyaluronate/Hyaluronic acid

Sodium hyaluronate is a skincare ingredient that boosts moisture by acting as a humectant. It can also help blend ingredients together as an emulsifier. This form of hyaluronic acid can bind an impressive 1,800 times its weight in water. It’s commonly used and known as the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Jojoba Esters

Jojoba ester, described as an emollient and moisturizer, is a derivative of jojoba oil and wax. Jojoba oil, historically valued by Native Americans for cosmetic purposes, possesses properties that are believed to benefit the skin. Notably, it reduces transepidermal water loss while still allowing the passage of water vapor and gases, maintaining skin suppleness and softness. This oil also enhances the spreadability and lubricity of cosmetic products. Research suggests that jojoba oil can be absorbed quickly through pores and hair follicles, reaching the stratum corneum layer where it interacts with intercellular lipids to further prevent water loss.

Manufacturers claim that synthetic jojoba oil mirrors the natural oil in chemical composition, functionality, blending ability, appearance, and texture. Jojoba oil is generally well-tolerated by the skin, considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing, although it may have slight-to-moderate comedogenic effects depending on its concentration. Thus, jojoba ester, derived from jojoba oil and wax, functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent, offering similar benefits as natural jojoba oil in skincare products.

Zinc Gluconate

If you’re dealing with acne and have explored oral supplements, you might have heard of zinc gluconate. It’s a type of zinc salt that research shows can be effective against inflammatory acne, although not as potent as the antibiotic minocycline (31.2% success rate compared to 63.4%). Zinc supplements are widely available, safe, and generally have minimal side effects, so taking a daily dose of 30mg could still be beneficial.

Applying zinc gluconate directly to your face can also be a good idea. Zinc has several benefits: it fights bacteria (including the acne-causing P. acnes) and helps regulate sebum production by inhibiting 5α-reductase. This makes it great for those with acne-prone skin. Zinc also boosts antioxidant enzyme systems, particularly superoxide dismutase, and aids in wound healing during the initial phase of skin repair. Overall, it’s excellent for healing and soothing skin in need of care.

Avobenzone

Avobenzone is a unique chemical sunscreen known for providing effective UVA protection globally, as newer sunscreen agents are not approved in the US due to FDA regulations. It’s considered the gold standard for UVA protection and is widely used worldwide.

This ingredient offers strong protection across the entire UVA spectrum (310-400 nm, covering both UVA1 and UVA2) with peak protection around 360 nm. However, a drawback is that avobenzone is not very stable in sunlight and breaks down over time. According to Wikipedia, avobenzone loses 36% of its UV-absorbing ability after just one hour of sunlight, which explains why sunscreen needs to be reapplied regularly.

Homosalate

Homosalate is a chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVB rays and is listed by the FDA as a Category I Sunscreen Chemical. In the US, it can be used in sunscreen products at levels ranging from 4 to 15 percent, and in the EU, it’s approved up to 10 percent.

This sunscreen agent protects against UVB rays (295-315 nm) with the most protection at around 306 nm. However, on its own, it’s not very strong (only providing SPF 4.3 protection at maximum allowed concentration). It’s also not stable in sunlight, losing 10% of its SPF protection in just 45 minutes. Because of this, it’s often combined with other sunscreens for better protection.

One advantage of Homosalate is that it’s a liquid and can dissolve other difficult-to-solubilize sunscreen agents, like avobenzone.

Octisalate

This ingredient, also known as ethylhexyl salicylate or octyl salicylate, is a UVB protector used in sunscreens. It’s a colorless to light yellowish oily liquid that filters out UVB rays (280-320 nm) with the most protection at around 306 nm.

On its own, it’s not a very strong sunscreen, so it’s usually combined with other sunscreen ingredients to boost SPF and help dissolve other solid UV filters.

It’s considered safe to use and is allowed at a maximum concentration of 5% in both the US and Europe (up to 10% in Japan).

Octocrylene

Octocrylene is a UVB sunscreen known for its strong water-resistant properties and broad absorption range. It’s widely studied by companies for boosting SPF effectiveness and enhancing sunscreen’s waterproofing abilities.

This ingredient is used at levels of 7 to 10 percent in both the US and Europe, but its higher cost can limit its use. However, some studies suggest it may cause allergic reactions in people with a history of photoallergy.

Octocrylene protects against UVB rays and some UVA II rays, with peak absorption around 304 nm. While not strong enough alone for high SPF, it’s stable and often used to enhance the effectiveness of other UV filters like avobenzone and improve water resistance in sunscreens.

Though generally safe, octocrylene has been linked to photo contact allergy in certain individuals, especially adults with ketoprofen sensitivity and children with sensitive skin. Consider choosing sunscreens without octocrylene for young children

Zinc oxide

Zinc Oxide stands out among sunscreen ingredients as a highly effective physical (or inorganic) sunscreen. While it shares similarities with Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), Zinc Oxide offers several advantages that make it superior.

Zinc Oxide has a long history of use in protecting, soothing, and healing the skin. It forms a strong barrier against the sun and other irritants, and it possesses astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial properties. When included in sunscreen formulations, Zinc Oxide provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays and can enhance SPF levels.

When the particle size of Zinc Oxide is optimized, it becomes transparent in visible light but blocks UVC rays, preventing a whitening effect when applied in sunscreen products. Zinc Oxide is recognized by the FDA as a safe sunscreen ingredient and demonstrates excellent compatibility with organic sunscreens, boosting their effectiveness.

Additionally, Zinc Oxide is used to impart a white color to products when desired. It is derived from zinc ore, a common mineral, and is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, making it suitable for those with sensitive skin.

Titanium dioxide

Titanium Dioxide is one of the FDA-approved sunscreen ingredients. When you apply it, it stays on the skin’s surface and scatters UV light, providing sun protection. It’s often combined with other sunscreen chemicals to boost SPF levels, which helps reduce the risk of skin irritation or allergies from using too much chemical sunscreen.

The size of the titanium dioxide particles used in sunscreen affects how it looks on the skin. Smaller particles are less noticeable, while larger ones can leave a white appearance. Some products label their titanium dioxide as “micro” or “ultra” to indicate smaller particle sizes.

Titanium Dioxide is also known for its ability to protect against both UVA and UVB rays. It’s commonly used in sunscreen, makeup, and daytime moisturizers to provide sun protection and sometimes to give products a white color.

In the world of sunscreens, Titanium Dioxide is part of the physical (or inorganic) sunscreen group, which means it reflects and absorbs UV light to protect your skin. However, recent studies suggest that these physical sunscreens mainly absorb UV light, similar to chemical sunscreens, rather than just reflecting it